WINE: The Evolving Muscadets of Haut Bourg

“SOWING the future in a middle of a crisis,” I remark, gazing deep into the monochrome photo. Sturdy ox gently tug primitive-looking planting equipment. Beyond, hare guards encircle just transplanted, sappy vines. The effect is not unlike pets wrapped in anti-itch collars. In the foreground, a photographer’s shadow looms large. The sunny year, according to the Choblet brothers, is 1944, and the shadow is their grandfather.

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