DESIGN: Cutting Crystal at Midnight

I AM sipping cool Chablis from an almost ecclesiastical goblet under designer Philippe Starck’s decadent Black Zénith chandelier – identical to the 19th-century original in all but colour (for Square Meal). I am at Guy Martin’s Cristal Room in Maison Baccarat. Overlooking the manicured Place des Etas-Unis, it feels removed from Paris’s snarl of traffic. Now HQ and museum for arguably the world’s most famous crystal brand, it first saw fame as Marie-Laure de Noailles’ mansion. The lavish patron of the arts supported Buñuel, Man Ray, Duchamp, and knew Dali as a pauper...

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