2 Dec 2011

Realising Roganic

 BEN Spalding sips green tea amid numerous jars and tubs of herbs, spices and flowers, their exotic names boldly scrawled in marker pen. We’re in the kitchens under Roganic, first London venture from Simon Rogan, mind behind esteemed Cumbria restaurant, L’Enclume. Tattoos crawl Spalding’s arms. They include the line ‘keep your feet on the earth but your head in the sky’ as well as jigsaw pieces and music notes reflecting an interest in techno music. “I had no interest in food at school” he says. “My dad was an alcoholic and died when I was 16. I got caught-up in a bad crowd.” Fortunately eldest brother Andrew set him straight, enrolling him at catering college. “At night I’d work at a restaurant run by an Alain Ducasse-trained chef which is how I caught the cooking bug.”