Fast Food, Slow Wine

I REMEMBER a riveting restaurant review by wit, Victor Lewis-Smith. ‘When I got this job’ he mused in The Guardian in 2005, ‘my mate Kev (who’s very high up at Channel 4) told me, “Don’t just go to all the poncey places. Review Little Chefs, too.”’ Despite the fact Lewis’ ensuing pit stop delivered him ‘sad sausages’ with ‘less flavour than roadkill stuffed into a condom’, Kev’s sentiments still circulate my subconscious. I think it’s important for critics to maintain context. To solely steer shiny silver or Sheffield plate to scrupulous morsels at steamed linen is to evade an abundance of intriguing eats unravelling beyond Michelin’s zenith. So, shunning pomp and “ponce”, I positively RSVP’d to ‘All For Wine and Wine For All’s’ intriguing invite to digest a tasting menu of ‘junk food and fine wine’.

Read at All4wine.co.uk