Journey to Riverford

OUR red faces are further reddened by a sky stretched with opalescence. ‘Riverford’s Field Kitchen is meant to be wonderful’ says train manager Ian as he deftly pocks tickets. Lubricated by artisanal distillate from ‘Prudence’, solo still at West London’s Sipsmith, our press pack slides south. Fortunately the neat vegetarian isn’t officious but eager to tell us how he cooks up a storm with wild garlic leaves leafing his weekly Riverford drop.

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