Spuntino: Rich Simplicity

ANGLEPOISE lamps, bent double, provide a few watts of glow. “Have you worked out what it’s for?” asks Russell Norman, the mind behind Soho restaurants Polpo, Polpetto and now Spuntino. I gaze down where he gestures. The Queen’s head vaguely gleams against the fritto mitto paper placemat. “To access the loo?” I instantly venture. He laughs, although I sense behind smiling eyes beyond vintage frames he’s inwardly disappointed that I chose such an obvious (and incorrect) answer.

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