Going for a Dane

NOMA in Copenhagen won best restaurant at the San Pellegrino sponsored ‘World’s 50 Best’ awards. No doubt this hastened Christoffer Hruskova’s ‘North Road’ closer to home. The substantial sequel to Islington’s ‘Fig Brasserie’ spans two floors in the culinary fertile St John Street, Farringdon. Serious care has informed the design. Handmade chairs stand on blonde parquet while the long marble bar counter is illuminated by lights which are as cool in style as they are in temperature. On my visit, the intention to capture crisp Scandinavia was hampered only by a wobbly table and dummy door through which many customers (myself included) determinedly tried but failed to enter...

Read more at Harpers Wine and Spirit magazine »