30 Jan 2010

Flavours from Frost and Fire

PICTURED: winemaker, Andrew Hardy’s first vintage of Petaluma Clare Valley Riesling, 1983.
In the wake of ‘huge bush fires’ in a year also ‘nailed by frost’, this survivor comes from the Hanlin Hill vineyard and in this instance, parcels further afield - to compensate for extreme conditions. Shimmering deep gold, it had the initial aroma of old gloss paint lid, then fresh cream and toasted meringue. On the delicate, moderately alcoholic palate, it tasted of white toast spread with lime marmalade with a long, angular, mineral finish. Perfect, no doubt, with a roast lobe of foie gras. Tasted in Hardy’s company at Bibendum’s offices, he ‘wished it had been better preserved under-screwcap’ (as all current releases) rather than cork.