22 Nov 2009

Express Distress

THE rambling basement sequel to Waterloo’s ‘Bangalore Express’ has a colour scheme resembling a hyped sports shoe, austere seating and A3 placemats that double as menus (supplemented by a la carte flyers).

The food compliment comprises a bewilderingly expansive array of dishes, from Indi-tapas to solitary low fat plate, via (drawing breath): French ostrich tikka, Caribbean curried goat, South African Bunny Chow, Indian Fish ‘n’ Chips, Massala Burgers, Indian Calzone and a 28-box strong customisable flow chart of ‘big plates of curry and rice’, not forgetting appalling desserts.
Despite a lightness of touch from a kitchen dealing with what totals over 100 combinations, and a pleasant, patient, knowledgeable team front of house, the muddling of genres will infuriate a purist.
My verdict? -This is a case of simplify or die...
Bangalore Express: 1 Corbet Court, Gracechurch Street, London. EC3V 0DT

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