Park Drinkers

LAST year, I was gifted this handsome-looking 1964 Barolo by the owner of an antiques shop on the Italian riviera. I think his generousity was explained by the fact he had reached the third stage of his T-Shirt, which read, ‘1 Grappa, 2 Grappa, 3 Grappa - Floor’. He advised me to uncork it on the birth of my first child. But I didn't want to start a family in order to savour a glass. Cutting through the cord of a wine puzzle chastity belt which proved too time-consuming to solve, I liberated it in a park...

Was it palatable, or even potable? -In this instance, I’m reminded of a joke told by former director of Christie’s, Michael Broadbent: ‘enjoying older wine is a bit like making love to an older lady - possible, but you need a little imagination...’

Glasses clinked to mark the end of a two-year relationship in that (young) lady’s company, the 45 year-old wine had the aroma of sun-struck, cracked red leather and a sticky texture with good acidity. The alcohol felt rather pervasive - almost sufficient to get to the final stage of the antiques dealers T...