Fish Works in Focus

IN JANUARY, a brush with administrators saw ‘Fish Works’ streamline its sites from ten to six. Craving crustaceans for not much cash, I stopped by their Swallow Street flagship to check its recovery...

Despite taking this snap under soothingly low light, I hope you can see just how lavish a platter it turned out to be. Beyond the parsley was a large crab, legs intact. After an uncompromisingly spiced Bloody Mary, it took me an hour to methodically work through. For £22.50, this must offer the best value in London. I doubt that neighbour, Bentley’s could (or would wish to) compete.

I used to enjoy fruits de mer at Butler’s Wharf Chop House, although on recent visits I became stressed by tedious service and a crudely cost-cutting kitchen. After terrine bound in raw bacon, the aftertaste of a fried strawberry dessert clung around like a toxic aftermath. I hope the Thames covers it.

By any comparison, Fish Works works.

FISH WORKS: Swallow St., London. W1B 4DJ