Elastoplast Label

ENCOUNTERED a couple of days ago: purity. Domaine Comte Abbatucci biodynamically farm about 60 acres of largely unpronounceable varieties around Napoleon’s birth town, Ajaccio. I helped present their charismatic ‘06 Vermentinu at last year’s Islington wine event, for me star of the show.

In their ‘07 Barbarossa and Sciaccarellu rosé, recently tasted in the company of Jean-Charles, confident, but not arrogant, winemaker, I found perhaps even more finesse, texture and beauty.

Coral pink in colour with a bright, cleanly laundered, full-powered, herb and pink-peppercorn scented nose, ruched silk palate with enduring citrus edge. Quite warm in alcohol, but not headstrong, with a soft, mineral culmination and no speed bumps along the oak-free ('no make-up') way.

Unfortunately, since last year a label designer has intervened and come up with an Elastoplast effect effort. Incidentally, miraculously no sulphur is applied to the vines. J.C. states 'nature gives you everything back'. He also regards bees as the 'internet connection' between plants.

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Did you know water-skiing is a popular pastime in St. Émilion?

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'Jan Moir and S' report teething problems at Gordon Ramsay’s Plane Food. They cite in particular the electric cookers as being not man enough for the big man (no naked flames are allowed on site).

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Also pictured: Breakfasts at Borough Market: scones at Monmouth Coffee, and wine, Southwark Tavern.