Warrior Queen

ANOTHER ENGLISH red rendition from Carter's, Colchester: Boudicca '05 Pinot Noir.

Almost suspiciously dark red kidney bean in colour and limpid, with a forest spice on the nose and a discernible Pinot-esque violet, cherry and dark cocoa confection on the palate. It felt like a confused collage upon opening, but improved markedly after 24hours release in decanter.

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I had lunch at the top of a department store today. For me, mall dining is not generally a favourable experience (excepting of course, 'Le Café Anglais' - REVIEW). The brand new venue: John Lewis, Cambridge, which extends like pergatory behind a buffed historic façade. The main attraction of the room, which evokes a posh ferry saloon, is the panorama, taking in Downing College. This has been inexplicably shrouded by voiles, however. Middle England's full spectrum takes refuge in refreshment up here, from Eggs Benedict Breakfast to the tea ritual.

Lunch was well-travelled British in style, simply executed from an small open plan kitchen. To quote from a local restaurant guide, 'fish & chips were reinvented as a fish tempura trio, along with pork chops masquerading as pork medallions and bread & butter pudding rebranded as brioche and butter pudding!'. A glass of Chapel Down Bacchus tapped into the polite gentrification, cleansing my palate after a rare rump.

Brasserie at John Lewis - 10 Downing Street, Cambridge CB2 3DS
T. 01223 361292