Fondue Fodder?

FROM THE vicinity of Lake Lugano, Southern Switzerland, comes a powerful Cabernet-Merlot grown on evocative purple porphyry, which traditionally brings firmness to wine via vine. Castello di Morcote '99 has a savoury squall of ageing, not entirely clean barrel innards, uncooked mince meat and ash. Pecan nuts also join the fray. On the palate, a light texture, with a resemblance to rougher Médoc. Better than fondue fodder, but a diversion too far from sapid sanity...