27 Dec 2007

Tasting Christmas

TWO POLISHED reds tasted at Christmas time:
Château Pichon Longueville Baron '79 (a rather average year). Beneath a tentatively removed, decomposing cork arose reassuring aromas of lean game, cedar, long ago sharpened graphite pencil and classic cigar box. A dark Persian carpet red. Within the firm suspension of the palate, which had a slight pomegranate pith/cranberry bitterness, no alcoholic heat, small, moist ceps, liquorice root and eventually, distant Crème de Cassis. Charming, with a graceful texture evoking pedigree soil bag.
Château Moulin Riche '00 (the second wine of three from Château Léoville Poyferré). With mauve tinges, the impressive nose was many fathoms deep, with almost tangible Black Forest Gateau, saddle leather and fresh game. On the tight, slightly dilute palate, the fruit promised took time to ripen. A long film of texture, but shorter presence of flavour.
Pictured: flutes of immediately elegant Ridgeview Fitzrovia '04 homegrown Rosé, which improved further the day after opening.