3 Dec 2007


ANOTHER ENGLISH by former world music 'mogul', Owen Elias at Chapel Down: his really enjoyable '05 Pinot Noir, sourced from various sites, but most likely especially heavy on Lamberhurst fruit. On the nose, drying mascarpone, lightly exotically scented twigs (finally the oak is discreetly utilised), muddled basil turned dilute, select violet perfume and up-close, warm, condensing Pinot breath in winter... The palate: delicately rose-stained, with tepid raspberry tisane. The finest rendition from C.D. to date and marvellous value at £12.99. I offered it (genuinely unconfrontationally) alongside a light, rhubarb and standing-meat smelling '04 Pommard, priced over £30, which I felt couldn't really be bothered - banal.
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