11 Nov 2007

Red Tape Missing

Clos Henri is the name given an estate, found and farmed by Henri Bourgeois from the Loire, when lured to the cool, bright, less legally prescribed Marlborough region of NZ.
The excellent packaging of their third release featuring de-consecrated, towed church as motif, the '05 Pinot Noir, conceals a top example of its genre. Translucent scarlet, with a sustained lift of flint tinged red apple, juicy raspberries coated with thin, brittle chocolate carpaccio, and cassia, the palate provides a plump, single creamy mouthful of freshly stewed plum, shaved nutmeg and bent spruce. The most worthwhile Marlborough Pinot I have tasted, although I generally find Martinborough renditions more toned. [Bedales]
A thought whilst aiding evaporation of Roederer NV: it is stunning that something so substantial can have such an austere mineral spine. Pinprick stars in a lazy, hazy red sky.