Immature, Mature

MORE SHEEP have been lifted from green pastures in New Zealand, in this instance, to make way for Montepulciano vines. Transplanted from Marche and Abruzzi, this variety, under the auspices of the Framingham Wine Company, has been vinified into a confused product...

The Marlborough winery's fourth vintage of this grape ('04) has a clear, deep cherry colour with a spicy, strained capsicum attempt on the nose followed by an unusual suggestion of cold wet coffee powder roughly mingled with vanilla. The official tasting notes suggest suede, which I agree with. On the palate, energetic, juicy, suprisingly tannin free, with a terribly unbalanced, intrusive, high octane ABV. Nor is the presence of oak okay. Indeed there is so much woody extravagance that it feels like its use is a barrier intended to camoflauge. Overall this being feels like a child rigged in formal, adult clothing for a strict studio portrait. Trying to make immature, mature; fun, serious. A wine of 'special interest' rather than commercial clout.