8 Nov 2007

Garrigue Airborn Frond

PICTURED: Celebrities at Selfridges
I had an all-too-brief encounter with another cult wine displaying François Mitjavile's unique, intelligent signature yesterday, Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf '95. Sampled before service at Kensington Palace's Orangery which resembles a Chapel's atrium, this supposedly 'Le Pin' -esque entity translates as 'hill of the burping beef' - a far cry in name from 'Horse Heaven', the U.S. entry enjoyed the previous day. From this micro, limestone sewn site, totalling just 15 acres comes a brick dust tinged, delicate wine with subdued red leather, after a while, warmed garrigue fronds, with air-dried brambles and pastrami dissipations, followed by a soft, brushed silk textured palate. Brambleberry, a hint of luxurious lamb fat (even osso bucco) collided within an encore finish.
For a review of Mitjavile's Bourg wine, which was warmly expressive, demonstrating similar characteristics to this Grand Cru St. Emilion, CLICK, then scroll.