7 Nov 2007

Bordeacious

'...there are only so many new cars one can buy after each vintage...'
[Anthony Barton]
Saint Julien Château, Léoville Barton (ironically, there is no Château on the esate) is owned by Decanter Man of the Year, Anthony Barton, a figure beloved of Claret afficionados thanks to the fact he is not wholly greedy when it comes to setting prices.
His '96 release has plenty of game on the nose, notably well-hung pheasant, with dried tobacco, some manure, ground green bell pepper and a mineral-herbaceous streak. Austere. It feels like an interruption to drink it now.
The '98's stance is more open, however, with small, dark forrest mushrooms on the nose. The palate is seriously complex, with well-groomed tannins. Very smooth, like a well-tailored suit.
It is a shame prices of Bordeux have inflated to such obese levels. Bordeacious.
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FURTHER LINK: Château Léoville Barton by thewinedoctor.com