24 Oct 2007


EATING SMOKED trout upon borrowed Wiltons plates (the ancient St. James' fish and game restaurant) complete with dapper lobster motif, my friends and I supped and sipped profusely.
'04 Rully 1ER Cru 'La Fosse' from Dufouleur Père & Fils (the four century old family firm acquired this year by Antonin Rodet) had sufficient acidity to scalpel through the scales. Predominantly light gold with green flecks and barley undertones, the nose suggested fading butterscotch with a surface-sliver of silver minerality.
Thoughts of chewed wheat, rice pudding and shaved almonds were generated on the citrus-stained palate. This well-made Côte Châlonnaise is a rough diamond and represents good value at around £12.
A sturdy stew with setting Polenta followed, partnered with Cascina Bongiovanni's Barbera d'Alba '03. Initially as tightly closed as a resistant mussel, with the colour of a dark purple crayon, light kirsch, purple violets and various deeply-dark berries ensued, all framed by a slight vanilla trance. From a relatively new wave producer with a sad but INTERESTING HISTORY.
Pictured: butternut squash mousse amuse-bouche above; right: a pretty glass holds something which appears unassuming. The contents, however, are more substantial - a sturdy Polish berry liquer. Delicious to stave off the cold weather, but moderation is urged!