Ruché in her Prime

A GIFT from an Italian sommelier, Bersano's Ruché di Monferrato '06 from Piedmont is my first encounter with this aromatic red variety, beloved by locals but as yet alien to the international market.

Quite delicately hued with a spicy, uncommon nose that is lightly fragranced and slightly confected with beached Earl Grey tea leaves. The low tannin palate is energetic - sprung even - with rosehip and wild flowers.

Very young, but in its prime, feminine and beautifully balanced, presenting a mosaic of memorable, pepper-seasoned flavours. Clean and classically rather than doderingly old world in its inclination.