24 Sep 2007

Saffron-Stained Palate

I HAVE never heard a negative word spoken about Tim Adams of the eponymous Clare Valley winery. He appears an honest chap who, according to 'thewinedoctor.com', started as a cellar rat and now buys the best grapes from vine-growing friends whose involvement he is keen to recognise. His '05 Sémillon, which, whilst at this young age comes across as headstrong, does represent good value (sub £10). With a heavily oaky nose with bitter lemon skin and lemongrass, the slightly astringent, warming, saffron-stained palate could almost be described as aromatic, although at present it is too dense and hefty to lift-off into the ether. Perhaps it would work with polenta biscuits...
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Whilst internet-diving, I came across a 'meditation' by Randall Grahm, Bonny Doon's definition of the individual winemaker. In it he defines terroir as something so particular that it can raise feelings of homesickness. Strange then, that some of his wines contain blended must from both East and West coast U.S.A. as well as Europe. An exciting polemic, nonetheless.