No Cash-Cow

THIS IS the finest Soave I have savoured. From producer Pieropan's La Rocca vineyard which takes its name from the town's medieval castle, this late harvested '05, barrel aged, golden wine is especially opulent when compared to the average exports of a sometimes cash-cow region.

With lemon tea on the nose and an elaborate but accessible and rested mineral, sugared almond and marzipan-laden palate, this strikes me as a successful take-off from a runway of banality.