'Prioratising'

WELCOME ON STAGE the inaugural Salmos '05, a theatrically launched wine from the grand Priorat D.O. in Catalonia...

Study the back label, and amongst the literary guff (a rich statement coming from me, I know), a web site emerges, picked out in gold, 'gateway' for the literary slurper 'to a real journey, full of secrets hidden by novelist Javier Serra [the 'Dan Brown of Chile'] in various places in Catalonia related to the culture of wine...'

Almost shocking pink at the rim, plump cherry, vanilla pods, green peppercorns and the great rose garden of the Ranger's House in Royal Greenwich Park in high summer, waft luminously. With a lightness of touch which belies great power, like a young, assured magnanimous millionaire, this doesn't initially feel typical 'Priorat'.

On the palate this far from frigid wine resembles a recently stoked fire which needs to settle, rather than a sleeping beauty awoken hours early. Oak is a little intrusive, not unlike the inside of an antique wooden sewing box. Very impressive though and full-figured for few financial figures [a penny shy of £14, Noel Young].

A touch of pastrami and eventually signature salt rise; the latter informs, reassuringly, that it is Priorat after all!

A well-woven blend, it is hard to discern one particular variety of the seamless liquidised quartet: Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet S.

Fine work, Torres. Don. Miguel, have you not got a spare daughter I might marry?

*

Below the crypics in understated lettering come the words: 'This vineyard has not been treated with insecticides or weedkillers. Torres contributes towards the conservation of the region's forests and the Bonneli's Eagle.' A nice touch. A fly flew into the bowl of my glass - we shared the last few sips together, harmoniously joined under the above slogan...