Curio, with Clout

FROM 'NEW ZEALAND's oldest winery' comes a curio with clout: Gamay from a rambling, pastorally-panoramic, ultra sunny vineyard in Hawke's Bay: Te Mata Woodthorpe '06.

In appearance, dark fuschias and coral collide: a choice colour for lipstick? On the nose, full, free, definitively Gamay notes of raspberry, cherry, clove and strawberry bloom, followed by an articulate, arousing, peppered palate with fresh, metallic acidity.

Ripe, slightly impish, and entirely inviting. More than a curio and no caricature. [£9.49, Noel Young]