5 Jun 2007

In Signature Frock

ACCORDING TO 18th century lawyer, politician and gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin:
'Burgundy makes you think of silly things; Bordeaux makes you talk about them, and Champagne makes you do them.'
Rather than entertain frivolous notions, I directed my full attention to a serious selection of samples from space age 'Enomatic' dispensers yesterday afternoon. This was within Selfridge's burgundy and brushed chromium, almost titillatingly-titled 'Wonder Bar'.
Furnished with a numbered key, my credited card allowed access to a wide spectrum (from cleansing fino around £1 to a £30+ thimble of Château Pétrus).
I particularly liked the Santenay '04, Clos de La Confrerie, by dependable négociant Girardin. With a precise, unconfected raspberry jam nose underlayed with a herbacious streak and an action packed velvet minerality, on the palate a firm backbone gave way to a dainty middle before again becoming mineral charged with an aftertaste nodding towards freshly churned Normandy butter.
Some hazardous looking salmon canapés were served at 'The Beautiful North', a celebration of the culture of England's North West, held in Manchester Square.
In the frame, Grayson Perry, current holder of the Turner Prize. With a a particularly eloquent (but gruff) palate, this speaker, attired in signature frock, had suprisingly good legs. Perhaps a breathing combination of Savarin's triology?
Highly recommended, I have just encountered 'The Slaughtered Lamb', web-log of Telegraph hack, Sally Peck. Expect a slightly spiteful tally of spicy observations on food culture.