Former Blotto-Grotto

THIS CHARMINGLY ironic photo opportunity caught my attention in Cambridge this PM, en-route to dining at D'Arry's, King Street.

A tribute to the iconic, individualistic winemaker, Chester Osborne, foremost figure behind Australian label, D'Arrenberg, this former blotto-grotto has been transformed into a lightly gothic monument to antipodean epicurianism.

This takes place in two halves: old-fangled fully-stocked shop, splaying across a courtyard into cavernous split-level restaurant with half-bottle candle holders, zinc Specials boards, pewter table tops and wine label tiled loos. Complementary blankets are available for outdoor sitters.

A key-lime pie scented McLaren Vale '06 Riesling tamed a Tartare of Scallop and Seabass, served on chicory spatulas.

Smoky cedar, violet tinged, fat cherry, heinously heavy '02 Dead Arm Shiraz from infamously half-dead vine trees challenged a soft centred blue fillet with its mellow cream tea scented tannins.