4 Jun 2007

Conker Shell Pith

GOOD Grüners abound these days, but great seldom surface. Vinokus GV3, however, easily fits into the latter category.
Initially I found an almost sneeze-stirring puff of white pepper, followed by paw-paw fruit (pitch black seeds included) then a palate of chamomile with a wince of zesty lemon and waxy honey spread.
A little time awakened French butter pears, outrageously confident but not arrogant, poised grapefruit acidity and creamy 'conker'-shell pith. This was followed by a suant kiwi resolution.
From vineyards amongst the tableau of three rivers, the Danube, Kamp and Krems, this is refreshingly fresh faced, but never naive. Rather fetchingly packaged too, albeit in an all too brief 50cl phial.