An Almighty '03

INTRODUCING TALISMAN '04 from Georgia, fond favourite of airline, Aeroflot. Very pale in colour, with Galia melon flecks, this citrus, cooked fruits and membrillo scented wine had a soothingly soft (but not flabby) centre on the palate, evolving with a recently peeled apple sweetness and underpinned with a discreet, functional acidity. This was sampled alongside a gripping aparagus, chicken and chorizo risotto chez wine importing colleague Robert, with Lisa, his wife. New born Edine slept blissfully, close-by.

A vividly coloured Pinot Noir from 1er Cru vineyards between Pommard and Meursault followed... A half of '00 Volnay, Les Chevrets from superstar domaine, Jean Boillot and fils, Henri showed freshly harvested Parasol mushroom aromas mingled with turned over soil and something slightly sanguine. The slightly sweet palate revealed an engaging, confidently attractive wine ripe for consumptive delight, with delicate tannins.

By contrast, '03 Pedro Ximénez from Don. PX seemed almighty, meticulously riddled with dark, roasted dates and burnt caramel coated walnuts, held taughtly together in an unctuous molasses syrup - as thick as sump oil. Time will put in on a settling diet (to an extent).

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My jaw dropped this PM, low enough to allow in tastes of premium Piemonte: two classic vintages of Giacomo Borgogno Barolo.

The '61 was suave, charming and alive, with pronounced spice, some farmyard feel and united aromas of sun warmed skin, tea leaves, pressed rose, strawberry and Charbonnel et Walker truffles. The palate was similarly vivid, with a gentle tang, refreshing acidity and a dusting of cinammon. The aftertaste was distinctive, engaging and persistent. If personnified, this wine would only just be going grey at the temples.

The '74 was softer, more creamy, with buttermilk. Looser on the palate, with less heat, and not as full, nor pronounced as the rather more feminine '61.