Vinous Virginia

I DRUDGINGLY tasted tables of Virginian Wine yesterday evening at an event held to commemorate 400 years of wine production within this Commonwealth.

I must say that despite the celebrated centuries of experimentation and supposed refinement, these were not universally 'user-friendly', but strict, spiritless and lacking in any discernible verve.

Oakencroft's '06 Monticello, fashioned from the hybrid Seyval Blanc was muskily aromatic on the nose with a fullsome, creamy candy lollipop palate.

Kluge's Pinot Noir sparkling, aged for 24months on lees had gunpowder on the nose with a disturbingly 'starved fruit' character. The '88 Oasis Rosé Grand Reserve, also fizzy, lacked finesse. I actually thought it was appalling: overflowing damp ashtray acrid.

On a positive note, Pearmund's '05 Riesling had dried apricot, white ginger and blonde peach flesh on the nose (very strongly evoking Viognier). Simple, but not simplistic. Fruit loaf and a degree of minerality came through on the palate. Incidentally, I think producer Pearmund's online suggested accompaniment of 'Crab Salad in Avocado Boats' would work harmoniously.

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Considering the tobacco industry is so concentrated in this part of the U.S., it really should be the spiritual home of the 'A.T.F.' (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms) where two of these components co-exist. It seems absurd that duty on wine should be in the hands of those handling firearms. What do readers think?