A Classic Car Basking

I HOSTED a grand old line-up tonight for private clients in pictures (I.E. film types). The highlights: a '96 antique gold coloured demi-sec Vouvray from the unfortunately titled La Cave à La Biche. Fortunately no one shunned this Chenin, laden with heady, autumnal honeysuckle, gorgeous fruit, and with a sensational aftertaste. This 'liquid gold' was never cloying thanks to the miracle of acidity.

An '88 from accolade-attracting Dr. Loosen, Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese mingled petrol, mink, crème fraîche and even a hint of skunk with an amazing, bold output, fully sustained at just 8P/C ABV. According to Dr. L., '...wines from Erdener Treppchen are more like a powerful, hard-body rock climber than the graceful ballet dancer...' This was partnered with the rather original Stichleton, the creamy, crumbly, legally-friendly unpasteurised version of Stilton (which currently must be). A gripping combination.

R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia ‘98 smelt of the interior of a classic car basking in sunshine replete with burgundy-coloured, time-cracked leather seats and a posy of dried flowers. Bitter cranberries and a laid-back oak influence also made a discreet appearance. Brimming with charm. Elegance in liquid form.

Château Phélan Ségur ‘86, a Saint-Estephe was the overall crowd-pleaser: soft, suggestive of first mint, then game, and then subtle, supple bosquey fruits. Feminine, balanced, nuanced, entrancing.

According to The Wine Doctor, the '83 and '84 vintages were withdrawn because of alleged herbicide contamination, thus this was a bit of a Phoenix rising from the ashes...

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As well as my Campaign Against Dill (April 10th), I would like to announce 'C.o.C.' (Combat On Coriander), particularly its leaf which looks like benign parsley camoflauge but is in reality far more harsh and regretful when chewed...