Marrow Chutney

I AM PLEASED to be amongst the first to review new world trained English winemaker Will Davenport's spicy release.

Horsmonden Dry '06 from Kent is organically produced, naturally fermented and unfiltered; a trio of brio intentions to tame the British maritime climate. Mild currants, muted gooseberry and marrow chutney gently rise free from the glass. This is followed by a viscid, almost Alsatian mouthfeel with a flirtation of currant leaf and greengage.

Balanced, soft with spirit and long-lived. Whilst deftly crafted, I think this wine needs a few weeks to settle into the bottle.

Aside from flavour and texture, the packaging is striking, restrained (like the wine) and the cork the finest I have recently seen, no doubt representating Will's meticulous attention to detail.

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I breakfasted at Roast, Borough Market, a gastro-guest. Overlooking St. Paul's and underlooking the busy market, I cannot think of a better venue from which to start the day...

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My latest fluid thoughts for the Southwark News may be found HERE.