ANOTHER CURIO from times past: this edition from Napa Valley's
Inglenook - an
'85 Niebaum Reserve '
Claret'. Apart from the fact it's nicknamed
Claret (one needs to get over the blatant geographical disregard still prevalent in the
U.S. when it comes to the use of the terms Champagne, Port, Burgundy and Claret - I suppose it's flattering) this was a delicate, lithe, soulful wine. Eagerly drinkable, flavours identified included well hung but juicy, gamey red meat and boysenberry (a cross between a raspberry, blackberry and loganberry).

An entrée at
Nectar, near Chestnut, San Francisco, shrivelled my senses. A large scallop fritter lumpily sat on top of something braised: not a happy marriage. Alongside,
Saint Gregory '05 Pinot Noir from Mendocino was monotonous, so much so that it made me yearn for a dirty European Pinot...
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