11 Mar 2007


FURTHER TO MY last Lombardian foray [PREVIOUS POST], where the longest harvests in Italy occur, I have dived into the far-out world of still white Pinot Noir '05 (or Nero), this example plucked from Torti, a family enterprise of really lovely-looking individuals.
Clear magnolia in colour, the aromas definitely define Pinot Noir, albeit a ghostly one. The palate is flirtatious, naturally not delivering the body of the red.
Earlier I took control of the Premium Wine tasting at Vinopolis. Cullen's '04 Chardonnay from Margaret River was massive, like some deity inviting worship. Slightly off flavours from the wild yeast fermentation gave way to lemon and lime sorbet, banana Nesquik (did you know one of the most significant absinthe distilleries is now a Nesquik factory?), followed by an utterly divine, action-packed palate which remained feminine throughout. Too bad it reminds me of a lost love (enter stage right, 'Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind').
The finish was a little hot in terms of alcohol, but developing and determined. Qualified in its ambition. This wine incidentally is biodynamic. Such an approach which involves respecting the cycles of the moon and hiding cow horns stuffed with manure amidst the vines might seem idiosyncratic. I believe that the extra TLC (rather than the obscure practices) does have a postive effect, however.
Also very much worth drinking attention to was Chateau Filhot's '97 Sauternes. On the nose delicate crystallised fruit drifted ethereally to my nostrils.
An unusually pellucid, evening honeysuckle wine reminiscent of the collective waft of 'Steinberg and Tolkein', an upmarket vintage clothing store for ladies on the Kings Road (don't ask me how I know this). Overall, a radiant blonde, with a discreet acidity and a fibrillating aftertaste.
To just categorise this as sweet is to over-simplify.
Futher Link: Biodynamics