18 Jan 2007

Dimmed Deco

SUBSTANTIAL BUTTER-bound Burgundian snails: soft, earthy, with a hint of the lettuce leaf they fed on slowly coming through... followed by a luxurious designer dog food-esque chicken liver and pork terrine: somehow dripping, bracing, absolutely fresh, ripe like mozzarella. These were two plats sampled at Le Saint Julien in Farringdon (one of my favourite areas of London) this windy eve...

Amongst the dimmed deco fittings, immaculate fenêtres and dark wood bar, this Parisian, despite being only 19months young, assuredly replicated within carcass spotting sight of the GB meat market, charmed me, as did its owner François.
A degustation occured!
This included Rolly Gassmann's '96 Pinot Noir made in miniscule quantity, which was very much alive with a firm, well chorused, sundried tomato paste palate with a bright centre, dry tannins and an air dried 'health shop' manure confidence. Louis Jadot's Nuits St. Georges (also '96) was however muddled - an 'OAP' (Old Aged Pinot). I liked its initial texture, however. A Volnay 1er Cru '00 was slightly tarnished although I could still see a sliver of silver gleam underneath. A '99 Pommard 1er Cru from J.M. Boillot was open to social-intercourse, demonstrating couth oak with no sign of collapse, unlike me post two Calvados-Café...