THIS COLD-pressed olive oil from Château Virant, Provence [€17.00, picked up on the recent French excursion] is pungently verdant, dense, slighty peppery on the palate but very heady on the finish and fine, like flour. Like a Pouilly Fumé, but in olive oil form. I thought the Portugese produced the best until now. Quinta do Marvalhas rivals, but doesn't beat.