Doing the 'Hokey Pokey'

THE RIVINGTON GRILL, Greenwich is a second label to 'Le Caprice', 'The Ivy' and 'J. Sheekey'. My father and I descended through the rustling leaves and squirrel-avenues of Greenwich park for lunch there, coming away beautifully satiated.

We begun with chilled copitas of Lustau Papirusa Manzanilla, always served in small bottles to ensure this delicate fino from the port of Sanlucar de la Barrumeda doesn't languish, then tarnish. Coddington Bacchus '05 from Herefordshire followed, a wiry herbaceous, asparagus-scented, refreshingly acidic, aromatic white. Duck livers with poached duck egg and then whole gilt head sea bream with cauliflower cheese and herb salad acted pliantly alongside.

I suppose you could say that I did the 'Hokey Pokey' afterwards (buttery crunchy, honeycomb ice cream).

A ridiculously unruffled waiter (not slickly, nor stylishly, more lazily) made me almost misbehave in an attempt to gauge a reaction (never forthcoming). Very good indeed. So good in fact that pictures of the adventure were wired up to a food-motivated girl in Aberdeen.