Straining at the Stalls

Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir '04 [£15.99, Noel Young]

DELECTABLE WITH perfectly ripe fruit, one almost gets the impression that the bright berry, Tuber rose talc and cedar-scented aromas were impatient to be unleashed, almost like a racehorse straining at the stalls. One of the highlights of this year, drunk alongside a risotto of squab pigeon, then rabbit wrapped in prosciutto at the Three Horseshoes, Madingley, gastropub of the four strong food conscious collection overseen by Master of Wine, John Hoskins.

*

Here is my fruitbowl, filled with peaches and figs, all grown outdoors at my parents house in Cambridge (without Baby Bio!)